Possessing the skill to polish your shoes effectively is crucial, especially for those who view their footwear as an investment. I want to emphasize that, in my perspective, there exists a significant distinction between a simple shoe shine and a thorough, deep polish. What I advocate is the latter, defined in the dictionary as the act of making shoes smooth and glossy, a process requiring manual effort and a generous amount of time.
The footwear I chose for this demonstration was ideal for showcasing a mirror shoe shine, as they harbored remnants of previous polish that needed removal, providing a clear illustration of the entire procedure. This aspect is noteworthy because, on numerous occasions, I've encountered customers with decade-old shoes layered with multiple coatings of polish. Unfortunately, this practice often results in unsightly cracked polish. Regrettably, many individuals tend to apply additional polish on top, exacerbating the issue by further embedding it into the leather, which is detrimental over time.
Instead, it's advisable to eliminate any excess polish and initiate the process anew whenever you aim to achieve a fresh shine. This is precisely what I undertook. The approach may vary depending on the severity of the polish application. To save time, I opted for a convenient method by applying nail polish remover to a cloth to effortlessly eliminate the existing polish. (Prior to this, I utilized a horsehair brush to rid the shoe of dirt and dust and removed the laces.) The use of alcoholic spirits is an alternative to nail polish remover in some instances. However, caution is crucial with any liquid employed, as excessive rubbing can inadvertently remove the finish.
The subsequent step involves revitalizing the leather, and there are several products suitable for this purpose. Options include a mink oil renovator, leather balm, or a cream-based conditioner. Performing this step is essential to soften the leather, preparing it to absorb polish more effectively. Simultaneously, it serves to eliminate any lingering dirt or dust that may have escaped the brush during the cleaning process.
To ensure the deep penetration of the conditioner into the leather, I employ the application method using two fingers wrapped with a cotton t-shirt that I've cut up. This same technique is employed when applying the polish, using a separate t-shirt to avoid product mixing. Following the conditioner application, it is advisable to let the shoe dry for 10-20 minutes. It's crucial to observe dry intervals between each stage to prevent over-soaking the leather, allowing the products sufficient time to effectively set into the leather.
Following the leather conditioning, the next step involves applying the initial layer of polish using an applicator brush. I prefer using a cream-based or regular polish at this stage, avoiding wax as it is more effective in restoring the color. The objective is to thoroughly work the polish into the leather, ensuring every part of the shoe, including the welt and stitching areas, is covered. It's essential not to overapply the polish; instead, a thin and even application across the entire shoe is recommended.
This stage can be challenging, particularly when dealing with light-colored shoes, as moisture from the polish may affect them if not applied with care. For very light tan shoes, it's advisable to apply a small amount on the heel first to observe how the leather reacts. If darkening occurs, quickly and lightly brush that spot with a soft-bristled horsehair brush to achieve even spreading. It's important to acknowledge that some light leathers may darken regardless, and accepting this is necessary. After completing this step, allow the shoe to sit for another 10-20 minutes.
Following the application and drying of the cream polish, the subsequent step involves adding the wax polish by hand. In my view, a bee’s wax-based polish with turpentine produces the most impressive shine. Many premium polishes contain these ingredients, frequently utilized by French-based companies in their shoe polish production. When applying the wax polish, use circular motions, ensuring even and thorough coverage across the entire shoe.
Apply a moderate amount of pressure, striking a balance to avoid finger strain or leather damage, but enough to penetrate the skin's pores. Achieving the desired mirror-like shine, as demonstrated here, entails completely filling in the leather's pores, creating a smooth surface resembling glass. It's recommended to apply 1-2 layers of wax polish before proceeding to the next step. Allow the shoe to sit for 10-20 minutes.
The final stage, arguably the most challenging, is a skill that often comes with continuous practice. Nevertheless, I'll guide you through it. Having already applied several layers of polish, creating a substantial coating on the shoe, you can now introduce water into the mix, reminiscent of the traditional spit-and-shine technique. To do this, attach the t-shirt to your hand, lightly dip your wedding finger (or equivalent on your right hand) into a tin of water, acquiring a drop on the tip for application onto the leather before polishing.
Refer to the pictures for a visual guide. Once again, dab your finger into the water, then dab your two polishing fingers into the wax, apply the water drops onto the leather, and polish using circular motions. Repeat this process for 1-2 hours, covering the entire shoe. Describing this method is somewhat challenging; it's a skill best acquired through hands-on experience. Be cautious not to use excessive water, avoiding over-soaking the leather or leaving water stains. If this occurs, allow the shoe to sit and dry before recommencing. To gauge your progress, feel the leather – it should become smoother with each layer. When nearing completion, I recommend letting the shoe dry overnight before applying the final layer of wax and water.
Upon achieving the desired shine, the final touch involves using a piece of black nylon, such as women's tights, to gently rub it around the shoe. This step aids in removing dust, blending in any remaining polish residue from the cotton shirt, and further enhancing the shine. To upkeep the shine, a nightly wipe down with the nylon is recommended. And that concludes the process! I trust this guide proves helpful. Best of luck!
